25Jun11 Message: Forward of the companionway, in the cabin, looking aft, is a square of flotation foam with the remains of "black" adhesive. Can you identify what this adhesive held in place? What is your recommended for covering this foam space? Thanks

Answer: A 1981 Com-Pac 16 uses block foam to support the cockpit (deck). Some people think the foam is for floation. It is not. Older boats use a wood brace for the same purpose. The Factory used a black indoor/outdoor rug to cover the white foam. It appears that part of your foam may be missing. Make sure your cockpit floor doesn't flex when you put people in the cockpit.

16Jun11 Message: Have cut out portions of the rotted bunkboards, both sides. The supporting 3/8-1/2 supports running along the sole are wet and rotting as well. Can the wood be dried, if so, how? alternatively can it be treated with 2-part epoxy? thanks for help.

Answer: Stop the leak and the wood will dry. Get all the water out of the boat and let the hot summer sun and as much air as possible dry the boat out. The only way to do a good job of replacing 16 bunks is to remove the deck. When we do a bunk replacement, we glass in new wood in the original position after removing the old wood. If you only have a small area of damage, I think I would cut a piece of wood to fit and glass it in place. When water is in a 16, we lift the bow as high as we can. Normally we use a 2X6 under the trailer tongue with the stern sitting on the ground. All the water drains to the stern and we can remove it through the stern hatch. Make sure the boat is secured to the trailer.

9Jun11 Message: The CP-16 spent the sinter on the trailer, somewhat elevated. Was late in roving my winter tarp; the cover ran from stern to over the hatch. When I opened the aft lazarette hatch there was about 2inches of water on the ballast area. I pumped it out. The cabin showed no evidence of any water intrusion. Can you offer an explanation as to where the water found access to the "bilge" area? What should I do to prevent it from happening again? Thanks for you help.

Answer: The boat's angle on the trailer is important. If the bow is up, the rear lazarette gutter will drain water into the boat. If the bow is still up when you find the water, getting it out the rear storage area is easy. If you use the boat without seeing the water, the water will run to the cabin floor. The cabin floor is the lowest part of the boat. You have to do an Indian dance with a towel to remove the water from that area. I don't like tarps on boats. They have to be well designed to do a good job without problems in rain storms.

7Jun11 Message: OK I have a Compac 16 and I know I have ask in the past but. HOW much to make it in to a pilot house so I can cruse the rivers in tennessee and what do I get for the pice you are going to give me. How do you need your money and how long will it take. I have a small camper and will tow it behind me, I also would like to sail the boat and wonder about the stearing from the pilot house. Thank you for the answer you are going to give me. I am 61 and have three sailboats and two kayaks its time to slow down.

Answer: The basic CP-16 Pilot House conversion price is $8,000. This price includes the pilot house with sliding side windows and an overhead hatch. The house has a painted interior with a bench seat for 2 people. The cabin retains the standard bunks, head location and the forward shelf around the compression post. The aft standard ports on each side are removed and that area is refinished. The general house finish is matching gel-coat. The house exterior has 2 handrails on top and 2 handrails at the entrance. The entrance has a removeable canvas cover in a choice of colors.

Additional included items are a mast tender system, a teak mast gallows and a jib furling system. Available optional items include a teak interior and a modification for fuel tank storage.

The CP-16 Pilot House has steering at the tiller only. This arrangement opens up the house as a great place for gear and crew. Sitting on the bench seat and looking out the windows is the best seat on this boat. A canvas extension off the house could make this into the best camper ever made. The house should extend our sailing season on both ends.

Our next available build date is 1Oct11 and we would like to take 3 months for completion. We need a 50% deposit to start work, the rest at completion.

7Jun11 Message: Keith, your website just keeps getting better. Thanks. Question: What brand of bottom paint have you found to do the best in NC brackish waters. Is the Abulative or hard surface type the best? The boat is in water during the summer months, but on the trailer much of the year. Also, on your beautiful Com-Pac 16 Trawler, what color bottom paint did you select (grey, lt blue). A good looking boat for sure.

Answer: We are currently using Blue Water Marine paint. We haven't been using it for very long, but we think it is going to be a good paint. We do have lots of experience with Pettit (Trinidad) and we think it's a great paint for our area. We needed to change for business reasons. An ablative hard surface paint is best for our use. Light sanding between seasons works well for us. The gray paint on the Trawler is a barrier coat. It currently has black bottom paint. We think black wears better than other colors.

6Jun11 Message: Hi, thanks for all the information that you post. This has to take a good amount of time to maintain this website, but getting good information on these boats from someone with experience is valuable and I do appreciate your efforts. I have a Com-Pac 19 that I use as a trailer launched daysailer and I am always looking for ways to shorten and simplify rigging and launching the boat. I'm considering removing the backstay and moving the upper chain plates back on the hull to speed and lighten raising the mast. I have several questions. How far back from the original position have you been placing the upper chain plates? Are you using just washers to back the bolts that have been added to the aft located chainplates? Finally will I need to reinforce the compression post inside the hull. The bolts on the post have already bent and I am wondering if the lack of a backstay will increase the compression forces on the post. Thanks again.

Answer: See picture below for chain plate locations. We use extra inside chain plates for backing plates. Get them direct from Com-Pac. They are cheap. The compression post load will not change. If you replace the damaged bolts, make sure you support the deck at the compression post before you remove and replace the bolts. The deck is loaded in its static condition. It will drop at the hull to deck joint if you are not careful.

25May11 Message: Your thoughts on the cp 25 with westerbeke, reliability, general upkeep, with use on inland waters.

Answer: I have own several 25s that I called "my boat". I like the size and the Com-Pac quality. I have one owner that uses his CP-25 on a lake in Ohio. He has had the boat for a long time and likes his boat. I have several owners around here (coastal North Carolina) and they all like their boats.

24May11 Message: I sail my Suncat a lot in light air(under 10 mph) and am wondering whether a slightly lighter weight loose footed dacron sail would be helpful. I recognize that the range of wind speeds would be narrowed at the top end. Also do you think full battens would be any advantage in such a sail? Really enjoy your site and have learned a lot here!

Answer: I think making a sailboat sail in light wind is what sailing is all about. You don't need as much sailing talent to sail in big winds. Customizing a sailboat to sail well in a local area is what an experience sailor would do. I like your lighter weight sail idea, but I don't think full battens would help (more drag in light air). We just talked to a Sun Cat sailor about using a CP-16 cruising spinnaker on a Sun Cat in light wind. The wind off the headsail (jib or cruising spinnaker) is directed through the slot to the mainsail. When the mainsail gets some wind, the boat moves out in air that you can't see on the water. You could borrow or buy a used CP-16 jib for a test. A low cost jib from any daysailor will work. You will have to add a halyard, but the sheets can go anywhere for light air sailing. Good luck.

20May11 Message: What do you recommend for a motor mount backing that is installed inside the hull? Am fixing a bad installation on my used boat and am interested in what you might suggest. I'm thinking oak.

Answer: We use 1/2 inch plywood for most backing plates inside boats. Plywood will not crack like solid wood panels .

15May11 Message: I was reading the Mast Raising section and I saw that I would benefit from a Boom Tender System off the Sun Cat. Do you carry that? What's the price? Do you carry a Mast Gallows for my boat? I was also wondering if you carried a bowsprit that would work on the 1982 com-pac 19 making like the newer ones? Thanks.

Answer: A mast gallows for a 19 cost $450 plus shipping. You really need a stainless steel stern pulpit to make that option work well. A better solution may be our Generic Sun Cat gallows sold under the Hardware Section on our New and Used Parts link. With a mast gallows installed on a Mark I 19, you don't need a mast tender or a boom tender system. Your boom will fold by pulling the boom aft and rotating it 90 degrees. We strap the boom to the mast and pull the main sheet tight. See the 16 picture below.

You can buy a bowsprit direct from Com-Pac. You will need to modify your bow pulpit like the one we did on our DIY link. I like the anchor roller option for a Legacy better. It will extend your sail plan by 12 inches just like a bowsprit, but it will cost alot less money. See the 16 picture below.

The rigging on your 19 could remain the same, but we like to remove the backstay and move the uppers aft. You don't have to do this modification, but raising the mast is better without a backstay. If you install a bowsprit, you may need to install a small extension. We have a picture of the rigging changes on our Mast Raising link.

15May11 Message: For lite air sailing areas, would it be possible to install the Mastender System on a Com-Pac 23D with the Horizon Cat Boom, Gaff and Sail? This should provide a gain of about 30 sqft of sail area over the Sun Cat Gaff Mod with the modified jib. The idea being that you can always reef the Main without depending on a big Genoa for lite air performance.

Answer: We did the Horizon Cat rig on the 23 before we did the Sun Cat rig. The boom was a little long but manageable and everything else worked as designed. We went to the Sun Cat sail for ease of use and because we normally have more wind in our coastal area. Had this been a low wind (lake or West Coast) project, I would have stayed with the Horizon Cat sail. I remember seeing pictures of old English boats with mains that extend pass the transom. A little more weather helm isn't all that bad. You use the 23 mast (make it shorter), the 23 boom as a gaff and buy a new boom for the new sail. What makes a mast tender work for the 23 is the tabernacle. The first tabernacle we made was made from carbon fiber as a sock and proved to be too much work. Com-Pac made us a tabernacle from stainless steel that worked better. You can order one from Com-Pac and use our specifications.

One benefit to the Sun Cat sail is that the boom can go higher on the Horizon Cat mast. This gives us standing headroom under the bimini. I really like this part of the modification.

Another benefit for Horizon Cat sailors is a Sun Cat sail if they have too much wind. I'm sure many Horizon Cat sailors that live on the East Coast fall into this category. It's an easy modification. The picture below shows the Horizon Cat boom and sail on the 23.

13May11 Message: Can I purchase already made teak foot pads for my factory installed ladder on my 2002 Sun Cat? I'm sure the round rungs will not be easy on bare feet.

Answer: Com-Pac sells teak and "Starboard" foot pads for your ladder. They may be difficult to install because they require drilling and tapping holes in the ladder rungs for attachment. West Marine sells "Sole Mate Ladder Treads" that may work for you. They are designed for 1-inch rungs and I'm sure our ladder is 7/8 inch. You should be able to come up with a spacer that will make them work on the smaller rung. The West Marine part number is 490136 and the price is reasonable.

3May11 Message: I love my Sun Cat but I'd sail more if I could sail better in light air. Do you have any suggestions or ideas about adding a drifter. I've "Googled" this and folks who have bought rip stop nylon at Jo-Ann Fabrics. I could buy some nylon, but I'd have no clue what to do with it!

Answer: I think I would buy a Com-Pac 23 cruising spinnaker offered for sale on this Web site. The $100 price tag is a big bargain and you can make it work with some adjustments. We currently have 2 in stock.

If I had a Sun Cat in a light wind area, I think I would add more sail area. We have modified a Com-Pac 19 with a Com-Pac 23 mast and sail. It worked well in light wind and wasn't that bad in heavy wind. We talked about adding a bowsprit to a Sun Cat and adding a jib, but didn't get it done. I have purchased Sun Cats from Clark Mills when he was building the Sun Cat. That was many years ago and before Com-Pac started building them. His boats had more sail area and a different rig. The Com-Pac Sun Cat has room on the deck for a mast behind the hatch. The Sun Cat could be a sloop without too much trouble.

29Apr11 Message: THE CP23 NACA FOIL KEEL IS SYMMETRIC. AIRPLANE WING FOILS ARE ASSYMETRIC TO PRODUCE LIFT. ARE THE CLAIMS THAT THE NACA FOIL KEEL PRODUCE LIFT TRUE?

Answer: With the keel going downwind, we want less drag and the keel is shaped for this condition. When we are on the wind, the sails produce power at an angle other than our true course. The difference between sail power and keel direction produce a keel pressure difference from side to side (side-slip). This keel pressure difference is called lift. The keel foil shape should help maintain smooth water flow at certain speeds. An old flat Com-Pac rudder blade produces good lift at high speeds. You can see some drag being generated at the trailing edge (rooster-tail). The new foiled rudder blade may have less drag. I think the answer to your question is "maybe".

27Apr11 Message: I would like to repaint the bottom of my 23. I've told by others that you can put a piece of 2 x 8 between two of the trailer keel rollers and use jacks on solid base to raise it a couple of inches to roll under the keel where it would normally contact those rollers. In your opinion, is the keel strong enough to do that? Movable wedges at the bunks for lateral support.

Answer: The keel is strong enough to support the boat. I don't think I would lift the boat with jacks. I think I would paint the area between the rollers and let it dry (about 2 days). Back off the trailer winch strap 4 inches and connect the boat's 2 aft mooring cleats with 1/2 line to a tree. Pull the trailer forward until the boat moves aft. Paint the area between the rollers and then pull the boat back with the trailer winch. Some owners have removed and replaced their boats on their trailers using the tree method. Blocking the keel as the boat comes off the trailer with additional lines or supports on both sides works well. You have to be careful when you move 3000 pounds.

24Apr11 Message: Hello! I have taken the rub rail off of my '79 CP-16 to temporarily seal the deck to hull joint. In the late Fall, I hope to disassemble things to completely renovate my dear little "Puff". What can I use to temporarily hold the rub rail on tightly enough to sail this season, but to be able to remove it easily enough come winter? The joint's few leaking spots have been sealed using a removable marine caulk. Would that do to help snug up the rub rail? Thank you so very much! I live in NC and hope to visit you sometime this summer! I appreciate your forum! thanks again!

Answer: The rub rail on a Com-Pac 16 is a snap-on fit. Your rub rail may be too long. The way we install new rub rail is to attach one end. We then run the middle part the shortest distance over the deck, stretching it an much as we can and attach the other end. We then pull the rub rail down over the joint for a tight fit. It is best to do rub rail work on a hot sunny day. Old rub rail can be hard to fit. It doesn't stretch as much as the new stuff. Come by and see us anytime.

21Apr11 Message: We've owned our 1984 Com-Pac for two years. We sail it primarily in the Albemarle Sound. The boom that came with it is not original. The main is, I think, original. It has a rope in the foot that appears to be for a slotted boom and and because our boom has no slot, we've been sailing her loose-footed. I'm curious if a slotted OEM boom might be a worthwhile investment performance-wise. Do you have OEM booms for this boat for sale? How much would one cost? While we're at it, would a vang be something we should consider as well?

(Happy Birthday Mom)
Answer: Your current boom should be OK if it is long enough to fit an outhaul tension device. When the wind is up, the foot will be too loose and that will keep you from making the sail as flat as it should be. A loose-footed sail may help performance in light air. A vang is normally used for sailing downwind. I don't like sailing downwind unless I'm racing. You may not use a vang that much. Most people don't. I may have a used boom for sale and the price would be reasonable.

19Apr11 Message: I recently purchased a 2004 Horizon Cat and have found that the ports are leaking. After a rain the carpet under the port and starboard "shelves" is wet and water has leaked onto the cabin cushions. Could you give some advice on best way to handle this problem. Thanks, and I really appreciate your site and the time you spend helping out Compac Owners.

Answer: We have had some success by removing the inside frame and caulking from the inside. Plastic windows do not remove well after being sealed with 3M5200 and I would try to avoid that solution. Also check to see if the glass to window gasket is damaged. Com-Pac can provide new gaskets. Water should puddle on the outside next to the window after a rain. All the windows should have the same puddle. If the leaking window doesn't have a puddle, it's the gasket. Good luck.

18Apr11 Message: Depth sounder - my readout is a Standard Communications Model DS45 - The transducer is a Airmar - the base is not a thru hull, but epoxied to the fiberglass bottom under a berth - the base is loose, not a tight fit where base is attached to hull - I am not getting any depth displayed on the read-out -does the loose base play into this? How do I troubleshoot this unit?

Answer: The transducer has to make contact with the hull. The loose transducer may be the problem. The boat has to be in the water for testing. Make sure the transducer's face is "wet" by putting it in a plastic bag of water. If it still doesn't work, your next test procedure is to replace the transducer. Your transducer installation was designed to be permanent. Most people use caulking without bubbles to make the "wet" connection between the transducer and the hull. The test bag of water will freeze during the wintertime.

15Apr11 Message: Love your site. You would have my businessif is lived near NC. Have you had any requests to repower using an electric motor? I saw a Thoosa Electric inboard at the New England Boat Show and am seriously considering this to replace my outboard. Any thoughts? Also, any recommendations for a yard in my area (NH, ME)?

Answer: We haven't had a request for an electric motor installation yet. We are in a coastal area where they may not be that popular. We can travel long distances with a Com-Pac 23 in our area. I can remember a 14-hour trip between Ocracoke and New Bern, NC.

Com-Pac makes engine mounts for their diesel models. That mount should work for an electric installation. Com-Pac is currently converting from the old angle iron mount to a new fiberglass mount used in the Pilot House model. Getting the outboard off the transom and putting the motor amidships makes the boat sail and feel better. I really like a diesel 23.

One of Com-Pac's largest dealers was located on the Parker River. I think their name is Fernal, but I thiink I would check with Com-Pac for a recommended dealer in your area.

13Apr11 Message: Am planning the replacement of rotted and broken saloon settee boards. They are broken from the compression post area back about 30-40 inches. My plan is to: 1. establish the pattern for the area to repaired; 2. remove the damaged plywood; cut out new plywood to the pattern. My questions are as follows: how does one cut the plywood to match the inside curve of the hull liner? how does one "tab" the plywood, both to the hull liner and the forward bulkhead? Lastly, I saw pics where teak/holly sole was installed in the space between the saloon settee boards. Can one install wood on this space and, if so, is it installed with new stringers and the flooring epoxied and screwed? Your advice and recommendations appreciated.

Answer: The damage was caused by the boat's leaking hatch slides. Make sure you pull the screws, caulk the screws and then replace the screws. A dry boat is a happy boat.

We use cardboard or heavy paper to make a pattern. Place the cardboard on the curve and use anything including your hand to make a crease in the cardboard. You can cut the cardboard with scissors to make your curved pattern. I would use the old glass as a connector if it is still there. If it isn't, lay the wood down next to the hull and lay glass and resin at the joint. Epoxy will stick to wood better than polyester resin. The wood parts that we have been talking about are part of the boat's structure. They are designed as bucks, but they also make the boat strong for trailer use. Teak and holly or anything else that's fancy is a veneer. We put it on top of the structure.

12Apr11 Message: Hello Again, I Recently acquired a 155 Genoa and would like to use it on a drum and swivel sys- tem while retaining the factory jib ,similarly equipped. The boat has a Hutchins bow sprit. In effect Iwould have two options, each on a separate "forestay"Does this make sense? If so where would the upper and lower mountings go?Even if the two headsail idea is a no go ,I would like to install a foestay for safety's sake as the cable in the luff arrangement is only as strong as the upper swivel. Please give me your advice on both questions. You have been most helpful in the past and I appreciate your wise counsel.

Answer: I don't like the 2 forestay arrangement. It may work if the boat is in the water all the time. We install a safety line (another halyard) for a wire furling system. It lives on the mast when the mast is down and we connect it to the pulpit when the mast is up. This arrangement gives you a safe system.

7Apr11 Message: WAS THE COMPAC 23 DESIGN INFLUENCED BY HERRESHOFF'S PRUDENCE 23 ?

Answer: Clark Mills designed the Com-Pac 16, 23 and the Optimus Pram. He also designed the Sun Cat and the bow of the Sun Cat and the 23 are almost the same. The 23 bowsprit fits the Sun Cat like a glove. I think all traditional sailboat designers borrow features from each other over time. The answer to your question is "maybe".

6Apr11 Message: Is it possible to use the trailer that comes with the Compac 16 (Magic Tilt) with 8 inch tires to haul a Compac 19. Or does it take a completely different configuration?

Answer: The 16 trailer holds 1100 pounds and the 19 trailer can hold 2000 pounds. A 19 can't be used with a 16 trailer.

2Apr11 Message: I have heard that there has been situations where the genoa/jib track on the Compacs equipped with them can come off of the top of the coaming because it is not through bolted. Is this a cause for concern and if so what is the best fix?

Answer: That's a new problem for me and we haven't seen it on the Com-Pac 16s. The larger boats with larger loads are through bolted.

1Apr11 Message: Ever try using the stern pushpit as the mainsheet horse or round bar traveler with the CP23?

Answer: We haven't done that yet. Most of our mainsheet traveler modifications move the mainsheet from mid boom to the bridge deck.

31Mar11 Message: I wish to sand and varnish the wood on the deck. Initially,I wish to remove the wood supports surrounding the companionway hatch and the hatchboard. Are the screws removed from the inerior or accessible by removing "bungs" then remove the screws by unscrewing them? Wht would be the recommendation for removing "bungs"?

Thanks again for all your support and advice.

Answer: You can remove the wood on a CP-16 by removing the screws accessed from inside the boat. No bungs involved.

26Mar11 Message: About the Compac 16 pilot house. IF I furnish the boat what would be the cost and Can I still use it as a sail boat or buy the one 16 you have and have you turn it into a pilot house..Suggestions and Price.

Answer: The Com-Pac 16 Pilot House is currently a $10K modification to a 16 if you furnish the boat. The Pilot House will have a cut down mainsail and the jib or genoa that's on the boat. The only change to the sailing rig is a hinged mast, a boom gallows and about 18 inches of sail removed from the mainsail foot. The boat will sail about the same as a standard 16. The halyards will be lead back to the cockpit. The hatch in the house will be larger than the Trawler's hatch and will allow most people to standup in the house. The side windows in the house slide open and a canvas covers the aft end of the house. The old bridge deck will have a standard seat cushion designed for "out of the sun" sailing. The bunk and toilet locations will remain the same.

We currently have 2 used Com-Pac 16s for sale. Both are suitable for conversion. We are currently offering the sailing rig modifications as a discount. Prices will be subject to change.

21Mar11 Message: I really appreciate your web site. New owner of 2004 Horizon Cat. The rudder on my boat is foiled and has several "dings" in it with glass exposed. I need some suggestions on repair. Also would like to paint the rudder but unsure if to paint or compound/wax if it is gelcoat. Thanks for your time and consideration.

Answer: Your rudder started life with a gel-coat finish on the outside. Most Horizon Cats that have bottom paint also have their rudder painted with the same paint. If the boat is going to be trailered, I think I would repair the original gel-coat. The rudder should be bottom painted if the boat is going to live in the water.

18Mar11 Message: 1981 CP-16. At the top of the Rudder head are two screws/rivets. I assume these held the jam cleat in place. Where do I get a replacement for the jam cleat? Also, are these screws or rivets (the head is stripped).

Answer: West Marine sells jam cleats. Get one that fits the rudder raising line. Use one of the existing holes in the rudder and drill another hole if the other cleat hole doesn't fit the other rudder hole. Cover the spare hole with the cleat if possible. Most new cleats will not have the same hole pattern as the old cleat. You can use screws or rivets to attach. Com-Pac has used both in the past.

15Mar11 Message: In your DIY section...glad to see it back Thanks. The picture associated with DIY Project 15 gives me an indication of placement of a new motor mount. It appears to be lower on the Transom than the original mount. My question is can the motor mount be placed at the same level of original mount. For consideration: extra long shafted motor Thanks

Answer: I would put it at the same level. The new mounts are (up and down) adjustable and a little longer front to back. They make 3 different outboard lengths. Standard is 15 inch, long is 20 inch and extra long is longer. The 19 really likes the long length. The extra long is too much in my opinion.

7Mar11 Message: Replacing damaged cabin berth plywood tops - what do you suggest as a replacement grade plywood? What type of sealer, epoxy or paint on this replacement?

Answer: The solution to the problem is to stop the leaks and make the inside dry. "CD" grade exterior plywood from the lumber store will work just fine. The factory currently uses an oil base paint for the inside, but they have uses latex paint from time to time. You need to match the existing paint color. Com-Pac has changed from gray (your boat) to white for the inside color.

4Mar11 Message: Great web site - I love the "answers". You guys are incredibly knowledgable. I am cleaning up my recently purchased 1988 CP 19/3 and would appreciate some advice on how to properly clean the aluminum mast and boom without damaging the finish. Thanks.

Answer: We use Marine Penetrol for masts and booms. It's a product made by the Flood Corporation and comes in quart cans. West Marine should sell Penetrol. A Flood Corporation phone number is 800 321 3444.

26Feb11 Message: I just recently discovered your website and I was really enjoying looking at pictures of your trawlers and reading thru the DIY section. Do you have any plans to put some of that content back up on the site? I'd really like to see some project boats and how-to's if you have any stuff like that.

Answer: My Web site has a size limit and pictures take up lots of space. The War Stories and Cruising links will end in early April and the DIY section will return. We have a Com-Pac 16 Trawler that's just about finished and it will be featured in our "What's New" link soon. Small Boat Advisor magazine has all the building pictures for our Coastal Packet Trawler and they may be in one of their up-coming publications.

25Feb11 Message: Hello,I'm looking to set my new Picnic Cat up for camp/cruising. Any ideas on creating a sleeping area on a Picnic Cat. I was thinking of suspending a camping hammock between the mast and boom gallows but wasn't sure of the strenth of the gallows.Any cool ideas would be appreciated.Thanks

Answer: We have a picture of a Picnic Cat with 2 biminies installed on our Member's site. I think that's a good idea for camping. You could add supports to the boom gallows uprights. The tubes are 1 inch stainless and a clamp-on fitting with small stainless extensions to the deck would work. They sell all the parts and pieces at West Marine.

23Feb11 Message: Current (original?) mainsail has no slugs but bolt rope(s). Do you suggest sugs be installed? if so, what size slugs? One person suggested not using the bolt rope on the boom, instead using it as "loose-footed"; what is your thoughts?

Thanks again for your advice and assistance.

Answer: Slugs are better if you fold your sail under a sail cover. If you don't use a sail cover, your boltrope sail may sail a little better than a sail with slugs. Many innovations in sailing do not apply to everyone. When we raced 16s on a regular basis, we didn't see any difference between loose footed, boltrope and slugs on sails. We also didn't see a big difference between centerboard and non-centerboard boats. The centerboard boats would point higher (5 degrees), but they were slower downwind. The biggest difference in 16 sailing is the sailor .

23Feb11 Message: I noticed in a previous answer that you stated you took the hull apart when redoing the interior wood in a Com-Pac 16. 1.) What do you guys use to bond the two halves back together? 2.) Do you have templates available for the interior wood pieces?

Answer: I'm sure that I meant to say that we removed the deck from the hull. The hull to deck joint is sealed with 3M5200 and reconnected with rivets or screws. We do not take the hull apart. The old wood interior was connected to the hull with resin and glass. You can look at another 16 for the other dimensions that you will need to build an interior. We don't have templates for that application. .

16Feb11 Message: Hi Keith; We have been the proud owners of out Com-Pac 23/II for 8 years.The boat is still in great shape and gets many compliments. The only problem I have is that the forward most starboard portlight has developed a leak around where the portlight penitrates the cabin side. I have caulked around it twice using 3M 4200, I have cleaned the area with acetone . I have been trying to keep the size of the bead to a minimum. I would rather not remove the portlight but if I must I must.What is the best way to proceed and what is the best caulk to use. Thank you for your help.Keep up the great work on your site.

Answer: I use 3M 5200 and it works well on port leaks without removing the port. Most caulking jobs require compression between 2 objects to work. That's a true statement for all underwater caulking. 3M 5200 is so good it will work without this requirement above the waterline. Those Com-Pac 23s keep getting better and better.

10Feb11 Message: The photo albumn displays a new CP-16 with boom gallows and lifelines. Can a 1981 be fittted with lifelines if a boom gallows is purchased?

Answer: A lifeline option for the Com-Pac 16 had a stainless steel pulpit with lifeline attachment points, 2 stanchions, and a stern pulpit. I'm sure the factory still sells this option. A custom system can be made for an 81 model using a boom gallows, 2 stanchions with the lifelines secured to the deck at the bow. Lifelines parts can be purchased from West Marine including the swaging tool. They also sell a stainless steel connector that will fit our 1 inch stainless generic boom gallows.

8Feb11 Message: Hey Keith, How's it going? Fine I hope. Trying to figure out where to mount a depth finder. I'll use a puck transducer that will shoot through the hull so no hole necessary hopefully. Don't know where to put the gauge. Any ideas? Thanks!

Answer: We put the transducer in the storage locker under the forward cushions on a Com-Pac 19. The indicator goes on the cabin bulkhead facing the helmsman. You can test the transducer in a plastic bag of water. If that works and I'm sure it will, we use a glob of silicone caulk for a semi permanent installation.

7Feb11 Message: I've heard pros and cons on different methods of removing old bottom paint. What do you feel is the best and easiest way to do this job?

Answer: The value of a boat with a smooth bottom is much greater than one that has a rough (not smooth) bottom. Once it has a rough bottom, making it smooth is difficult. West Marine sells several different paint removers that work well. If the old paint is heavy, several coats of paint remover are required. The final process is sanding to make the bottom smooth again. It hard work and takes a long time for good results.

I have heard that sandblasting also works for large bad bottoms. I think I would try this method if my boat was larger than 25 feet.

7Feb11 Message: I need to replace my motor mount...currently have a 7.5 Johnson Sea Horse 2 stroke 1983 model but thinking about upgrading to a 6 hp 4 stroke. Do you have any recommendations for a motor mount. Thanks

Answer: The Com-Pac factory uses a stainless steel bracket like the one sold by West Marine (it may be the same bracket). The part number is 315119. Most 6 hp 4 stroke motors are about 60 pounds and this bracket will work well. West says don't use this bracket for 4 stroke motors, but they appear to be wrong. I would add stainless steel fender washers to the installation bolts as added backing plates.

31Jan11 Message: Your forum is excellent and has helped me greatly already. I own a 1981 CP-16 which was well cared for above the waterline, but had poor attention paid to bottom paint although it was kept in salt water. When I bought it last fall, it was covered with barnacles. I removed most of the hulls, but a lot of residue and the base disks are still present. I was planning on having the hull from waterline down sanded and painted and wondered what was the right product(s) procedure(s) to use. I will be keeping her dry on a trailer and using in fresh water only.

Answer: I would complete the sanding by making the bottom smooth. We would paint the bottom with a barrier coat and then paint with Pettit Vivid that has a white color. We barrier coat all boats that haven't been bottom painted before. The barrier coat will also help protect the glass after the heavy gel-coat sanding. We like Vivid white because it makes the boat look original and that's good for a boat that's going to be used from a trailer.

26Jan11 Message: I intend to repair the "spider cracks" just above/around the port and starboard rails. I will use a dremel.......is a triangular sanding pit or a triangular cutter is preferred?

After I drill out the damaged areas, forming a triangular cavity, I will clean out with soap+ water, then initially fill with "putty"(per Don Casey's book on Sailboat finishing). Then I will fill with either paste gel coat or gel coat resin and finally, sand to finish.

Question 1- what type of putty is recommended? Does it need to be color matched? Question 2- should I use both paste and resin? Will paste alone suffice? Question 3- do you have any suggestions as a starting point for tinting the gel coat of a 1981 CP-16? Question 4- Any steps I missed or do you have some thoughts to improve the process i outlined?

Answer: We use a dremel and it works well. We don't use soap and water for cleaning. We do use Acetone for gel-coat and alcohol for painted surfaces. We use Formula 27 (Evercoat) as a filler. The filler color is white and that's important. Gel-coat is transparent and less gel-coat will be required if the filler is as close to the same color as the gel-coat. We also use a Polyester Glazing Compound (Evercoat) as a final filler. You will get a better blend between the old and new surfaces with a glazing compound. The glazing compound and the old gel-coat have the same amount of hardness. We use paste for color match purposes. We mix a little of this and a little of that for the right color. Starting with a basic white gel-coat requires lots of mixing. Mixing a paste with resin wouldn't work very well. Com-Pac boats are for the most part an off white color. We buy gel-coat from Com-Pac and they will sell it to you in small quantities. A pint should do it and they call the color that you want "Dusty White". You might add a little paste for a better color for your boat. Most old boats have lots of chalking. This makes the surface dull and your gel-coat repair will cure dull. Your gel-coat will cure dull because it contains wax. Wax is required to seal the gel-coat and make it hard. Gel-coat inside a mold doesn't require wax because the mold seals the gel-coat. They come out with a shine. If you shine the new gel-coat, it will stand out against the old boat. No match. We spray gel-coat using a Preval touch-up spray bottle. It works like a can of spray paint and it's cheap. You mix a little gel-coat and add 20% styrene as a thinner. Remove the little filter on the end of the pickup tube. Prevals should cost you less than $5 each and you should be able to buy them from a car parts store that stocks car painting supplies. Car people use them for car paint touch-up. It's a great tool. You can use a brush, but making the surface smooth after the cure will require more work. Don't forget to mix the harder with the gel-coat. Gel-coat requires two times as much as resin.

23Jan11 Message: WHAT IS YOUR OPINION OF LIFELINES ON THE COMPAC 23? THEY SEEM LIKE THE RIGHT HEIGHT TO TRIP OVER. I AM CONSIDERING REMOVING THEM.

Answer: Most owners don't use the lifeline gate. Using it might help getting on and off the boat. I hang fenders, wet towels and wet rodes on the lifelines. I kind of like the lifelines. We sold lots of boats back in the 80s and early 90s and these boats are getting more valuable as they get older. When I value a boat, I look for a standard boat first and then any popular modification that will increase its value. In the old days, lifelines were an option that everyone ordered.

23Jan11 Message: On our Com-Pac 19, I would like to remove the spreaders and move the uppers aft as you have discribed. At times we get into some very gusty conditions. Are there any caluclations that show the limits of the mast in this configuration?

Answer: No. The benefit of the modification is using the boat from a trailer and getting the mast up and down. Everything is a compromise in sailing and this is one of them. If you sail with the rail in the water most of the time, I wouldn't remove the backstay. However, if the tension is correct on the uppers and lowers on a standard boat, the mast will bow back in the middle. This isn't good for sail shape. Look at the mast (bottom to top) from the base of the mast while sailing. It should be straight or have a little curve forward at the middle for good sail shape. The standard boat doesn't do this.

23Jan11 Message: I plan to install midship cleats on my Sun Cat. The best way to do so is not clear to me. Would appreciate your advice.

Answer: We normally do midship cleats on large boats. They have limited value on small boats. The deck is cored and using a stainless fender washer under a nut will work as a backing plate. The liner inside the Sun Cat is going to get in the way. I would consider going through the deck and the liner if the liner is touching the deck on the inside. Acorn nuts on the inside would give a finished look and the liner could be the backing plate. If the gap is too large between the liner and the deck, you need to reconsider midship cleats.

19Jan11 Message: Hi,What's your opinion on the Compac Picnic Cat.

It's a low performance daysailor and that's my kind of daysailor. You can sail it in pretty good winds and enjoy the experience. I have a boat owned by an older person on the coast of North Carolina. They keep it on a boat lift and sail it on a large bay without a motor. You get good at sailing when you sail without a motor.

16Jan11 Message: How do you replace rotted bunkboards in the cabin?

Answer: We remove the deck to replace the bunk boards on a Com-Pac 16. Remove the rub-rail and the screws that hold the deck to hull. The drains need to cut and the big screw under the mast tabernacle removed. Two men can lift and remove the deck. PVC splices are used to replace the drains. Repairing the interior plywood is easy with the deck removed .

6Jan11 Message: How do I fit my Suncat to a Boat lift? Can the bunkers of the lift, set just outside the keel, provide enough support without having to figure out some support under the keel? Stating it another way is: Is the structure of the Suncat solid enough to sit on the bunkers placed on each side of the keel and sit there with no support under keel and do so without the boat bottom springing up, cracking the fiberglass and warping the boat. Thanks in advance for your input.

Answer: We do it all the time. Use 2X6s for the bunks on the lift and put them close to the keel. Spread the load over an area as large as possible. We haven't seen any damage caused by boat lifts.

14Dec10 Message: Hi Keith, Am thinking about getting a genoa for this boat since I sail on a river where winds are often light. Would intend using it with drum and swivel furling system currently used on the stock jib. Do you have any advice as to size, installation or any other matter related to this project? Thanks. Have a merry Christmas and all the best for you and your business in 2011.

Answer: The stock Mark I genoa never worked very well. It was a 200 percent sail that used the stern cleat for a sheet fairlead. A better sail would be a 150 percent that had an adjustable fairlead track like the Mark II. If you don't want to do a track, place a fairlead where the sail's "long perpendicular" hits the deck. (an extension of a right angle off the luff that goes through the clew to the deck). This will give you the correct sail trim for sailing on the wind or pointing. The other points of sail can be jury rigged with cheater lines. Three tell-tales on each side of the sail 6 inches back from the luff will tell you what you need to know about sail trim.

9Dec10 Message: as ocean and coastline sailor in Brasil, now living in Long Island, I read your web side with great interest and liked very much your entrepeneur spirit in experimenting new ship performance...congratulations...actually I'm looking for a nice used CC 16' (downgrading because of age) Fair winds

Answer: Thanks for the kind words. We have that great looking 87 model on our yard. Check out our Used Boat listing on the left. Our project Com-Pac 16 will be available sometime during the spring. The price will be about the same as the 87 model. It has a centerboard, internal ballast, mast gallows, yellow AWL-Craft hull and new sails. The CEO of Com-Pac Yachts has two sons and one of them is restoring 16s. You may want to get on his list for a used boat. Email the factory for contact information and ask for Tyler.

27Nov10 Message: Do you have winter hours at Richlands --- would like to visit late February if the shop is open.

Answer: We will be open. Our hours are 8 to 4, Monday through Saturday.

21Nov10 Message: I recently looked at a 1998 Com Pac 16 with the reqular stub keel, but it had a center Board in it. Is that a factory configuration or has it been modified by other than the factory?

Answer: It was the standard configuration for that year.

17Nov10 Message: CATALINAS, THUNDERBIRDS AND A NUMBER OF BRITISH BOATS EMPLOY "POP TOP" COMPANIONWAY HATCH ARRANGEMENTS. HAS THIS EVERY BEEN TRIED WITH THE CP23? CAN YOU SUGGEST A SOURCE FOR HARDWARE.

SEEMS LIKE IT MIGHT GIVE HEADROOM AT ANCHOR YET BE OUT OF THE WAY WHILE SAILING. THANKS.

Answer: We don't have a "Pop Top" available for the CP-23. We do have boats with dodgers that give standing headroom in the cabin hatch area. The green project boat on this Web site has standing headroom in the cockpit under its bimini. It requires a rig change. The new Pilot House CP-23 will have standing headroom in the cabin and we hope to build an aftermarket house for older models next year.

9Nov10 Message: Hello, My boat has standard main and jib,the latter on a drum and swivel furler. It also has a bow sprit, the full use of which is constrained by the short bow pulpit.To date I have not had the guts to cut it and extend it to allow me to fasten the jib further forward. Your recent DYI entry on this subject gives me the incentive to try.Thank you. I have 2 fifteen inch long tracks on which I want to put moveable cleats in order to better adjust the jib. Where shall I put the tracks in relation to the stock cleats Do they go on the combing or the gunwhale,Flat or on edge? Are screws enough to hold them in place and if not how do I deal with the thick floatation material under the combing? Finally is the installation of the tracks even worthwhile? Sorry to be so long winded.

Answer: They go on the combing flat. Tracks are standard on the CP-16 Mark II and the forward position on the track is used for the jib and the rest is used for a genoa. A Mark I uses the stern cleat for a genoa fairlead. Screws are used for track installation and they work well. I think I would use tell tails and a small extension line on the jib tack. Vary the line length for a perfect upwind sail shape. Sail shape on a beam reach will be more difficult to adjust, but it can be done with a cheater line. You should be able to do this fix with your furling gear.

29Oct10 Message: Please let me know your opinion of the CP-16 with centerboard compared to the fixed keel models. Is there a way to search your answer board by topic? Thanks for all your great info.

Answer: I like the fixed keel version unless I need a boat that points 5 degree higher. If you have a need to tack up a cheek on a regular basis, the centerboard boat would be a good choice. There is extra maintenance required for that type of boat. I like to think that I can out point a centerboard boat with a boat that doesn't have a centerboard. Some people call that experience and other people call it cheating. My Answer board can't be indexed. Sorry.

27Oct10 Message: Would you be able to convert my 1998 P16.5 into a trawler? I have been sailing for many years and would like to have a small trawler I could sleep on.

Answer: I think it's possible. We had a P16.5 in the same shop when we were building the tooling for the CP-16 Trawler. A house on the P16.5 should look pretty good. A pedestal helm seat in the middle of the floor with the controls in the forward bunk area would work well. That would leave sleeping bunks on both sides.

20Oct10 Message: Hello ordered brass bushing for rudder bushing would not fit over existing bolts. WHAT IS THE SIZE OF THE ORIGINAL BOLTS. THANK YOU

Answer: The rudder bolts for the CP-23 are 5/16 inch.

15Oct10 Message: I want to flush my Yanmar while on the trailer. I was told to ask about the "fake a lake" you have. Can you provide some info? Thanks

Answer: We disconnect the intake water hose at the seacock. That's the same place that you should be using to anti-freeze your engine. Put the hose in a bucket of water and start the engine. Maintain the water level in the bucket while the engine is running. We use a water hose to maintain the water level in the bucket. You can't put your engine in gear while the engine is running. The cutless bearing requires water for lubrication. You will destroy the bearing if you run it dry. You should use about 1/2 gallon of anti-freeze to protect your engine and the engine systems for the winter. When you see green coming out the exhaust pipe, stop the engine.

3Oct10 Message: Do you know when/if Com-Pac stopped using wood-core in the top of the deckhouse in the CP19 and CP16 boats?

Answer: They stopped using wood-cored decks in 1980.

29Sep10 Message: I am looking to buy a 1987 compac 16/2. It has about 8 inches of blistering on both sides right below the water line. there are also quite a few spider web cracks on the keel - almost looks like concrete leaching through. Are these difficult to repair and should this scare me away from the boat?

Answer: The keel on a 16 is fiberglass with concrete inside for ballast. Small blisters are easy to fix and large blisters are more difficult. Large blisters may continue to leak indicating a wet hull laminate. If the blisters stop leaking, the hull is normally dry. Cracks are the result of impact damage to the keel. Repairs may be expensive.

24Sep10 Message: HAS ANYNONE TRIED ADDING A TEAK CAP RAIL TO THE COMPAC 23?

Answer: The Com-Pac 23D has teak cap boards around the cockpit as standard. I'm sure they are currently available from Com-Pac. I don't think shipping will be a problem.

22Sep10 Message: Can the 1983 reconditioned 16' foot you have for sale for 4000 be painted to look like the green 16 you show and I click on to see the 19'. Dark green hull and dark brown bottom paint. What year is the 2.5 hp motor.

Answer: We normally restore "Mark II" 16s, 19s and 23s. We think they are the best value for our customers. We are looking for a Mark I 23 for our new pilothouse project. It normally takes us 6 to 8 months to restore a 23 and maybe 4 months to restore a 16. We like to think our restored boats are worth half the price of a new Com-Pac boat. All boats that are over 20 years old are candidates for restoration. We normally buy a used boat and restore it for a specific customer. The other restorations are normally sold before they ever get to our "For Sale" list. We don't currently have any restored 16s or 23s on the yard. We may have a pretty Mark II 16 coming soon with a new blue hull, black bottom paint, boom tender system and lots of options. We will put it on the Web site when it arrives. The old motor for the 83 model runs well, but it's an 80s model.

22Sep10 Message: I am getting older and it is becoming more difficult to get into and out of my boat and into a dinghy. Would you suggest a stern-mounted ladder or are there portable ones which would work. What kind is best.

Thanks.

Answer: I like the stern-mounted ladder made by Com-Pac. I just ordered one for my boat with teak pads on the stainless steel rungs. I have been in the water twice during my boating career. You can pull the ladder down from the water if required. The pads are easy on your feet and the ladder looks good on the boat. It can save your life.

19Sep10 Message: Do you have a price list for restoration of a 23'. Presently on a scale of 1-10, 1 being the worst, I'd give this boat about an 8. I would like a complete restoration less rigging. I have all the wood eye brows, tiller etc. Id like the old bottom paint removed and hull painted green with the black bottom like your pics show. Please advise.

Answer: We like to exchange boats or take a trade on a restored Com-Pac 23. The selling price for a restored 23 is about $18K. That includes hull paint, bottom paint, cushions and all the detail work that needs to be done. A restored 23 with modified rigging (Mast Tender or gaff) for trailing cost more. You can expect to get the market price for your boat.

We plan on building a restored 23 with standing headroom soon. Our boat will be similar to the factory Pilot House 23. We will post a working picture on "What's New" today.

18Sep10 Message: Ref. the last persons question, would the same apply to a CP23. And does it harm the boat any by sailing with just a genoa. Thanks

Answer: Reefing on a 23 is the same. Sailing with only a headsail works well on all Com-Pacs. The 23 does best with a genoa because the center of effort is a little more towards the stern with a genoa. A 155% genoa curves around the shrouds making the angle to the wind better than with a jib. A headsail only boat will sail as fast as a boat with 2 sails when the wind is above 12 knots. It will not point as high as a boat with 2 sails. I use a headsail only when I sail a standard 23 with furling gear because I'm lazy. If I need to point high, I add the main. The difference between a 19 and 23 is the 23 needs to reduce power in 18 or more knots of wind. The 19 can go higher because it's a stiffer boat. The 19 has the same ballast ratio, but less sail area for its size and harder chines.

15Sep10 Message: Hey Keith, Hope you are doing well. Can you tell me the best way to reef the main on a 19? Mine has the reef points in the sail but that is all. Don't want to damage anything doing it wrong. What do I need? Thanks!

Answer: You need a hook at the tack with a block, eye strap and cleat at the other end of the boom. The first thing you do when you reef is connect you’re topping lift and adjust the mainsail sheet to control the boom over the cockpit. Then slack the mainsail halyard to connect the reef grommet to the hook at the tack. Retention the halyard next. The next step is to pull a reef line from the eye strap on one side of the boom up through the aft grommet in the sail to the block on the other side. Secure the line at the cleat on the same side.

A good thing about 19s is that you almost never need to reef. Changing from the genoa to the jib is about all the reefing a 19 ever needs.

11Sep10 Message: Any experience/thoughts on performance with a three blade propeller for a Com Pac 27 with a Universal 12? Would there be a benefit in areas as Beaufort Inlet?

Answer: A three bladed propeller is smoother than a two bladed propeller. It isn't any faster and I doubt if it would be better in the Beaufort Inlet area.

22Aug10 Message: I have owned this boat (21' Windjammer) since 1961. Have always toyed with the Idea of a small stand-up cuddy. The problem, is the cabin or cuddy design MUST fit the Design!

Answer: I do a computer picture to see what a boat looks like before I build anything. I just did one on an old Hermann catboat. My Hermann could be a restored and modified catboat or it could be a small trawler. I think I have decided on a catboat restoration after doing a computer picture. We have tooling for 2 cabins (houses) for sailboats. One is small and fits the Com-Pac 16 and the other is larger and fits the Com-Pac Sun Cat. I didn't like our Sun Cat house on the Hermann after doing a computer picture. We also have lots of Horizon Cat parts in stock. A mast tender mast, oval ports and a boom gallows will look good on this old catboat

14Aug10 Message: Keith, I just read a question from Nov. 3, 2009, asking about the Torqeedo Electric Motor. I would advise NOT buying this product. I purchased the most powerful Torqeedo engine to move my Sun Cat around mainly on an inland lake. It was worthless in any wind over 3 mph! Because of the motor's lack of power, I drifted into weeds and got caught in all sorts of uncomfortable situations. It was a disaster. Exasperated, I took it back to West Marine for a full refund. I then learned that my Torqeedo was the 3rd one returned in 2 weeks! Torqeedo claims this engine is equivalent to a 6hp gas motor. No way! 1hp was more like it.

I am now a happy camper with a 4hp Mercury that moves my Sun Cat with ease through wind and chop, and starts up easily.

Answer: Thanks for the report.

27Jul10 Message: is raising the mast on the 23' a 2 person job? Expected time required?

Answer: It takes 2 people to raise the mast. To get a 23 rigged on the trailer takes about an hour.

20Jul10 Message: i want to remove the spreader and backstay on my 19 and install the masttender system. can i do this myself?

Answer: You can, but it's a big job. We have found that the Mast Tender on the 19 isn't needed. We think the short mast is easy to raise without a backstay and with the mast resting in our mast stand. We use the 16 boom tender system (boom hardware only) on the 19s if you want to carry the sail in a sailcover under the mast. The 19 boom can move in the sail slide groove and that's why you don't need the boom tender deck hardware. The picture below has the deck hardware. We moved the upper chain plates back on the hull (you won't need new parts). The lowers stay are in there original position. We can ship a mast stand for a 19 via UPS. You have to have a stern pulpit to make it work.

6Jul10 Message: I have the Compac factory's blue hull. It was in pristine condition when I took delievery of this used boat, but I've gotten a few scratches that go all the way through the gelcoat to the white. Is there some touch-up product and procedure to fix these cosmetic problems when they occur? Thanks, as always, for your sage advice.

Answer: Buff the gel-coat and they may disappear. If they don't disappear, fill the scratches with a coloring agent and buff again. The coloring agent can be paint if it matches. We talked about using a colored wax in our DIY section on colored hulls. That article may help. Any dark colored wax will work for small scratches. The amount of work depends on the size of the scratch.

6Jul10 Message: I want to put a boom vang on my 1968 built Clark Mills Suncat 16'. Can you explain what this takes? Thanks.

Answer: West Marine sells a vang kit. The small kit should work, but you may want to buy the next size up. The vang connects to the boom and the base of the mast. Most people that race sailboats have to have a vang to race downwind. Most people that cruise and day-sail do not use them very often.

1Jul10 Message: Stumbled into your site tonight quite by accident. Can't wait to explore it all. The trawler conversion on the 23 has been a "day dream" thing for several months, and I had no idea such a project was in the works. Are more photos available, or do you have one on your yard (in the shop)? Haven't seen ya'll in years. Hope to visit Richlands soon.

Answer: We do have a Sun Cat conversion on the yard that's not in production. We also have a Com-Pac 16 conversion that is in production and we have one on the yard. The factory's plan for the 23 is a new 23 motor sailor. A motor sailor house transplant on an older 23 will make a great trawler conversion. I think the economy has to get better before we see any major changes at Com-Pac. Come see us when you can.

29Jun10 Message: I need to tighten the packing gland a little on my prop shaft. The fitting seems to be some knurled/notched pattern and I have no clue to what type of tool to use that will fit properly. Thanks.

Answer: We have a Project on our DIY link that explains the procedure. The tools used are pipe wrenches or special tools that can be purchased at West Marine.

29Jun10 Message: Keith. Thanks for your help with past questions. Your guidance has been very helpful. I have another. The factory installed Jib line cam cleats have lost their (what appear to be white plastic bearings). So, Each cam cleat nees to be replaced. The problem is the back sides of these units and the nuts that hold them in place must be under several layers of fiberglass. When I go in the cabin and look to the area where the back side of each unit (One on left and right) should be seen, there is only fiberglass. It appears to be a pretty substantial and supportive part of the construction of the boat. Should I just leave these old ones in place and locate new ones a little more forward on the deck (where it would be easy to access screw and nut)? Or is there a way to take action on the existing cams and replace using the old location. IT is the encasement by the fiberglass construction that has me stumped. Any suggestions on how you guys replace old jib cleats?

Answer: The nuts are hidden by foam and glass sheets. The easy way to replace the cleats is to cut the original bolts. Make the bolt area smooth and install new cam cleats over the old area. Use screws to install the new cam cleats. Com-Pac used nuts and bolts because that works for them during the build process. Screws will work fine for the jib sheet loads the second time around.

24Jun10 Message: Keith, How about another dumb question from an amature? Transitioning from a sloop to a catboat I am not sure how high the boom should be on the mast. With a sloop you made sure the main was all the way to the masthead. I have not seen anything that covers this very elementary point. Thanks.

Answer: There could be several reasons for taking the sloop's main all the way to the masthead. The big reason in most cases is to have enough room on the mast to tension the luff and get some room under the boom for your head. The main's position on a Picnic Cat mast isn't important. The tension between the throat and the tack is important (more wind, more tension and less wind, less tension). The halyard positions the throat (same as the head on a sloop) and the downhaul tensions the tack. The boom should be located (about) at the mast hinge after you tension the sail.

22Jun10 Message: My questions today are about cleaning up and making look good, the rudder and rudder housing. What is the best way to transform the rudder assembly to its vibrant black "new look". Special Paint? Suggestions. Also, what is the best way to get the rudder looking like a new one. Is fine steel wool the answer, or special polishing compounds. Your renovations and restorations always look great. Just trying to get my 16 to look as good once again. Thanks.

Answer: We take the rudder apart leaving the part that's attached to the boat on the boat. Tape around that part for painting. We hang the rudder housing from a line and spray paint with a flat black paint. A spray paint made for outdoor use is desirable. The rudder blade is cleaned and etched with an electric sander. Use a sandpaper grit that will cut the surface and leave a good appearance.

22Jun10 Message: Keith, Thanks again for the great website and your willingness to share your knowledge. I was wondering if you knew of a good alternative to the Hutchins ladder for the PC?

Answer: Sorry. The Hutchins ladder is the only one that fits the boat and looks good to my eye.

14Jun10 Message: I just bought this 1965 built Suncat. The mast end looks like a small round piece of metal which fits into the mast step on the forepeak. The fibreglass around the mast step has been repaired with epoxy and screws. With just the stays, is this sufficient to secure the mast and was this the way it was designed?

Answer: I think your Sun Cat was built by Clark Mills. We did have one other person in TN building Sun Cats during the 60s and 70s. The mast base has to be supported by something other than the deck. Most boats have a metal pole support under the mast on the inside. This support would go from the deck to the keel or to some other load-bearing surface. A 2/4 stud on the inside will work.

11Jun10 Message: I am very impressed on the Trawler conversion of the CP16. As the CP19 is difficult to rig and launch single handed for an older sailor, I am considering selling my CP19 in favor of a Downeast/Trawler type of boat. But this may be a better alternative for the CP19. Is this feasible and what would be the turn time on a project like this? Ball park cost + repower? Also what about the ballast, is it retained, reduced or removed? Thanks.

Answer: The easy way to change boats is to trade-in the 19. We take Com-Pac trades on Trawler conversions. The Com-Pac 16 Trawler conversion cost $18,000 including a new trailer and a new 9.9 Yamaha motor with remote controls. The ballast is retained. Build time from start to finish is about 4 months. We are building trawlers all the time and if you select one that's in work, the build time will be less.

Building a trawler conversion on a 19 hull would be too expensive. The first boat built cost 3 or 4 times more than subsequent boats. Design, building templates and obtaining parts for a new boat takes time. We normally spend more than a year creating our first boat.

3Jun10 Message: My Cam Cleat for the main sheet is not springing back and locking well. Want to replace, but getting to the nut and backing plate is nearly impossible for an adult. Any trick? Or do you cut off the stainless screw heads and just drill new holes and forget the backing plate. Seem like they must have installed the cams prior to assembing the top section. Got any easy ways to replace the Cam Cleat. Also, is there a West Marine Part number you would recommend.

We miss having your annex in Garner.

Answer: I also miss having the shop in Raleigh and Garner. The easy way to replace the main sheet cam cleat is to install an access port. West Marine sells them and they come with instructions. Cut the hole with a jig saw and make sure you tape around the pencil mark on the outside. The tape saves any damage to the gel-coat from the saw. The port is centered in the space between the cockpit's upper edge and the aft hatch. This will give you access to all of the parts that are connected to the transom. Any cam cleat will work that handles 1/4 inch line.

28May10 Message: The Spinlock cam cleats on my Suncat don't seem to work well. The one on the portside for the downhaul doesn't grip at all. On some forum I read complaints from others about these cleats and I thought there were alternatives suggested, but I can't find the forum exchange on this subject. I'd like to replace with something that works better and (if possible) would fit the existing holes in the cabin roof where the Spinlocks are attached. Any suggestions?

Answer: You are right, they don't work very well. A more expensive jam cleat would work better, but I think it would be too large for the boat. I have considered a standard cleat. I like to pull a halyard next to a cleat and take a turn when needed. You may find a good-looking standard cleat with the same hole pattern. If you find another jam cleat that works (not too big), filling the hole under the new cleat works well. If you use a white filler, the hole inside the boat will almost disappear.

20May10 Message: I have a spiderweb like surface cracks on the starboard side of my boat. I tried to fill them in with crack sealer to keep water out. What is a good fix for this situation?

Answer: Most spiderweb cracks are cosmetic. We call these cracks grazing. The fiberglass flexed or bent with an impact and the gel-coat didn't. Water is not normally a problem with grazing. You repair the damage by making the cracks larger, filling the cracks with filler and finish the job with new gel-coat. Most people let professionals do this type of repair.

6May10 Message: Keith, I have followed your website for a number of years and greatly appreciate all that you do not only for the Compac family, but for sailing enthusists in general. I am considering two options for my boat, as I am getting older and am not as agile (health issues) as I once was. The boat has not been used for over 11 years, being tarped over with the boat/trailer on blocks. The ramps here in the Tidewater region are not as steep as back in Pennsylvania (Lake Nockamixon) and trying to get the boat launched here was impossible for me (3 ft. tongue extension and all. Option 1 is to clean/wax the boat, take some pictures, then email them to you for your price/brokerage estimate and whatever arrangements need to be made. Option 2 is to keep the boat, have your yard remove some of the concrete ballast, lower the trailer axle, shorten the mast and sail and then motor/sail her. This would be a middle-ground between the designed configuration and your trawler design. I would much appreciate your feeling on both options. Thanks,again, for your servic,advice and enthusiasm to the sailing fraternity!

Answer: Thanks for your kind words. What makes the 16 a great boat is the ballast. It's the only small sailboat available with 40% of its total weight in ballast. That said, my solution to the difficult problem of sailors getting old is the trawler. Getting old happens to everyone if you’re lucky. If you decided many years ago that you are a water person, then keeping a boat (used or unused) is important. I think I own 5 boats that I call my boat. I work on them and I think about them, but I use them very little. Thinking about your next adventure is almost as good and doing it. I think I'm going to the St. Johns in the fall.

Option 1 is exchanging your boat for money. I don't like that solution. Option 2 would cost too much. I think we are back to money again. The solution to launching the boat from the trailer is bottom painting and a slip. Many landowners have shallow slips that are available at small cost. Finding the ideal small slip for your boat is hard to do, but worth while. Most slips that can accommodate a boat with 4 feet of draft are hard to find. A slip for a 16 should be easy to find. Most marinas have several slips that they can't rent because they are too shallow. A 16 can touch the bottom in a slip and that's OK. Some boats have made their own hole for the keel with time. I like the routine of in the water in the summer and on the trailer during the winter. Boats in the water can have furling gear and that solves the reduced sail problem. Sailing with only the jib works for me.

I think I'm going to let my children handle my boat problems at the appropriate time.

25Apr10 Message: We just purchased an '85 Compac 19/2 yesterday and I have several questions. 1-What is the "u bolt" at the head of the mast for? 2-I've seen VHF radios installed in the headliner. How thick is the cabin roof and bulkheads? 3-The anchor locker doesn't drain anywhere. Doesn't this make for a smelly cabin? 4-A stern rail with an opening would make reboarding from the ladder easier. Have you done any modifications like this? 5-Were is the best area to install a "shoot thru the hull" transducer?

Answer: 1-The "u bolt" is not standard. If it's located about 3 feet above the deck, it may be a whisker pole connection point. 2-They vary. Remove an installed bolt and measure or if you use a 1/2 inchcrew, it should work fine. 3-Don't put the anchor rode away wet. Flake the rode on deck to dry. 4-Climbing over the stern rail works pretty well. The problem with the ladder is it's hard on the feet. The rumble seat works well on the 19, but makes using the ladder more difficult. 5-The small storage area under the forward cushion.

This is a good place to do an add-on answer. All shoal draft sailboats have short keels. Sailors that own these boats need to reduce keel contact with the trailer when they recover their boats. All Com-Pac boats should float off the trailer when they are launched. The water level on the trailer should be noted at this time. When you pick up your boat, the trailer should be "less deep" to take advantage of the keel guides. The keel should hit the first roller between the keel guides. Using the winch, the boat will come up and over the rollers. You can feel the keel location without seeing the keel. Some people put straps between the bunks and the keel guides. The straps will help keep your keel off the metal parts of the trailer.

24Apr10 Message: Hi. I've always wanted to learn to sail, so I bought a used Com-pac 16. But turns out I haven't a clue how to rig it or put it in the water, and no how to sail it. No foolin'! Any idea where I might get some info on this? I've got several learn to sail books. thank you.

Answer: Many Com-Pac 16 owners have worried about the same thing. Keep in mind that most of them have become lifelong sailors. You read your books and really look at all those sailing pictures. That's the path to becoming a sailor. Becoming a sailor comes slowly. You can get to be an old person and still have something to learn. That's what makes sailing so interesting. Join our club and see if we have a member that's close to your location. Learning comes faster if you sail with a friend.

22Apr10 Messge: Looking for the Capacity Plate info on the ComPac 19 (1990) - HP, # of Persons, Total Weight Capacity and Person Weight Capacity. Thanks.

Answer: Power boats require capacity plates. Sailboats are excluded from that requirment.

14Apr10 Message: Where can I find a replacement mast for a 1983 Com-Pac Yacht 16 and about how much would it cost?

Answer: Dwyer Aluminum Mast Co. makes the mast. A dealer for Dwyer in your area or the Com-Pac Factory will drop ship a mast. A mast coming from Dwyer to North Carolina cost about $700.

11Apr10 Message: I'd like to purchase a tarp that fits my Suncat (cabin model) when the mast is down. Do you know of any source that has tailor-made such a tarp? Thanks, as always, for your helpful site.

Answer: We think a Sun Cat cover has to be a custom cover that's fitted to the boat. We build them out of sailcover material with reinforcements along the centerline. They connect to boat with common sense fastens at the rub rail. A blue tarp from the hardware store is the most inexpensive cover.

8Apr10 Message: Hi, I've really enjoyed you're site. Great information. I'm hoping you can help with a compac 19 I'm starting to restore. It has sat with water in the bilge for quite some time but I have it fairly dry now. However, when I ripped up the carpet on the floor infront of the bilge I found that the surface under the carpet seems loose and delaminated. I'm wondering whats under this layer. It seems that I should rip up the entire loose figerglass "skin" but don't want to get in over my head. Can you tell me what the structure is under the floor. Similarly I'm wondering what is inside/ under the wood covering the v-berth? I've looked for sectional drawings for the boat online but no luck. It looks like there is a large styrofoam block under the cockpit floor. Are these other areas also filled with foam, or some other material that I should assume is now water saturated? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks for your great site!

Answer: The surface under the rug is suppose to be loose. The factory puts a layer of glass over the concrete ballast. They need to glue the carpet down and glass doesn't stick to the concrete. About the only thing that will is epoxy resin. Sticking epoxy to cement is still only a maybe. I would put a new rug down with contact cement and stop there. Inside the bunks have foam installed. You can see the little square wood covers where the factory injected the foam. The injected foam will not hold water. It's the type of foam that's made for marine use. It will give some flotation capabilities, but it is used in the 19 for structural purposes. The foam blocks support the cockpit floor.

8Apr10 Message: Hi Kieth. I want to install a radio with the antenna on top of the mast. My question is where to put the antenna cable through the cabin top of my Com-Pac 19. The electrical connection seems to occupy the only reasonable space. Apparently it is necessary to run the cable through the top and through a cable mount, then connect the mast cable and the one that has passed through the cabin top with a barrel connector to connect male fittings on the ends of the two cables. There seems to be no fitting that works like the electrical connector. Thanks for your help!

Answer: You’re right, you don't use a connector like the electrical connector. You use a through deck fitting that's made for a VHF cable. As you screw the fitting together, it will squeeze the fitting gasket and the cable together for a waterproof connection. West Marine sells the fitting. Some people with older 19s pass their cables through the forward hatch. I think the first solution is the best.

22Mar10 Message: I recenty purchased this boat and it's my first (except a sailing dingy I had as a kid). Problem is the trailer is WAY too much for this boat. I can make it work but before putting in too much $$ and work I wanted to know if you have a trailer for the Com-Pac 16 and what you would sell it for?

Thanks

Answer: The best price for a Com-Pac 16 trailer is a Magic Tilt trailer made for your boat. It's the same trailer that the Com-Pac sells for their new Legacy sailboat. Since you live in FL, the best way to buy one is to order it from any Marine Dealer that sells Magic Tilt trailers. Have them order a Com-Pac 16 trailer.

20Mar10 Message: Has anyone ever installed an electric anchor windlass on a Compac Horizon Cat or know of anyone who has. I know an anchor windlass on a 20' boat seems like overkill. However I single hand a lot and at my age I don't always relish going on the foredeck in strong winds or choppy seas when I am by myself.

Thanks for any information on this subject.

Answer: We have installed a windlass on a Com-Pac 27. Most windlass installations are operated from a position close to the windlass. Foot switches installed in the deck. You need to keep an eye on the operation while it's working. If you can keep an eye on the windlass from the cockpit, a Horizon Cat installation should work. A small rope (line) windlass would be my choice. A chain windlass would work better, but 150 feet of chain would be too heavy for the bow of the boat.

18Mar10 Message: You have stated a couple of times that the pre-1979 ComPac sails were made from too light weight sailcloth. What weight should be used in the sails? Is the standard 2.9 oz cloth used by SuperSailmakers what I should get?

Answer: Super Sailmakers knows the correct weight for your 16. They use same weight cloth for all Com-Pac 16s. Back in the old days, the textile people didn't make the right cloth for the 16. Times have changed. I think you will be happy with Super Sailmakers sails and their prices.

18Mar10 Message: I plan to separate the deck from my hull on my 1979 CP-16 in order to rebuild the bunks, etc. I realize I have to drill out the rivets. Can you tell me how to separate the hulls after I do this? I assume they have been glued together with 3M 5200 (or something) and that I will have to cut through this with a sawzall or Dremel Multi-Max. Thanks for the advice and your super web site.

Answer: We use a large knife to run down the hull to deck joint. It's only caulking and easy to cut. Cut the drains with a hacksaw and use a PVC splice when you replace the deck. Try not to damage the drain connections when you do your saw cut. Remove the one big screw under the mast tabernacle that screws into the compression post. Lift off with 2 men, one on each side. The 79 has a wood cockpit support under the cockpit. It shouldn't be a problem because it's not connected to the deck.

15Mar10 Message: i am looking for a decent com-pac 16 or 19 as my first boat since joining the local sail club. i just think they seem more like a sailboat than the hunters and catalinas out there. they do seem hard to find. any ideas on where to find one? thanks.

Answer: We have 2 16s for sale. Check out the used boats on our Web site. The 19s are few and far between. If you want something new, the Legacy is a new 16 and the Eclipse is a new 19.

15Mar10 Message: Hi again, Keith. Thanks so much for your terrific website. QUESTION: Can I successfully use a short shaft outboard on my CP 16/1?? Or should I go with a long shaft. The top of my motor mount, when in the down position, is abouptrpt 14" above the water line stripe. FYI, 90% of my sailing will be in lakes here in the south and the rest will be in the Chesapeake Bay and Great Lakes. Thanks for the reply. Regards.

Answer: The recommended motor for a 16 is a short shaft (15 inch). A long shaft will work, but it will drag in the up position when sailing. The recommended power is 4 hp or less. If you use a larger motor, the boat at idle will be going too fast.

15Mar10 Message: I have a Horizon Cat. I am attempting to install a Hawkeye Depth Sounder with an In Hull Transducer. My question is, Is the Horizon Cats Hull solid fiberglass with no core? If so where is the best place in the hull to install the transducer? Has your comapny ever installed In Hull Transducers on a Horizon Cat? I am beginning to think the hull may be to thick for the in hull transducer to work properly. Thanks for your reply.

Answer: The Horizon Cat hull is solid fiberglass. We have installed transducers in the hull under the floor in the forward cabin. The rug on the floor covers a removable panel for installation purposes. Ease the edge of the rug up for access. A transducer works well in that position.

15Mar10 Message: I am adding spreaders to a ComPac16/1. Do you know the correct location on the mast for these?

Answer: The 16 Mark II has spreaders located half way up the mast. I think the half way point will work with a Mark I.

14Mar10 Message: Hi,Keith. I just bought a 1979 Com-Pac 16. Love the boat. It is in great shape, with gelcoat only lightly oxidized. The interior is another story. The coffin berths are rotted and the previous owner had ripped out the forward two feet on each side and started a sloppy repair. I plan to fix things properly but want to know what most owners do. Do most rebuild things to the original design or do something different, like rip it all out and just put cushions in? Any advise you can give would be greatly appreciated. Lastly, have you had any thoughts of a national Com-Pac outing this summer? Thanks.

Answer: The 79 was the last 16 with a wood core in the deck. The hatch slides leaked on those boats and the core in the da underneath suffered. We fix both problems by removing the deck and doing repairs to the deck and the bunks. Two men can pick up the deck after the rivets have been removed. The drains also need to be cut and a screw under the tabernacle has to be removed. The deck can stay outside during the repairs, but the hull needs dry storage during the repairs. We don't use cushions on the inside anymore. Com-Pac designed the Legacy with an indoor/outdoor carpet on the bunks. That carpet works better than cushions if you add a sleeping bag when needed.

A national Com-Pac outing would need an individual or individuals that have the time to organize an event. Years ago we had 2 clubs in FL and our local club in NC. Jean and Gary Sigvaldsen organized the NC club and had events on the second weekend of every month. They ran the club for 20 years. The Com-Pac factory and The Sailboat Company supported the NC club and their activities. I'm sure it was the same way in FL. I remember attending Com-Pac races in FL that was supported by the Clearwater Club and the Factory. The Factory provided all the hot dogs that we could eat. I didn't win any races in FL. Those FL sailors were really good.

12Mar10 Message: Looking into getting a bimini for my PC, do you know the dimensions? Thanks! I love the double Bimini! But will be doing just one for now.

Answer: We don't have the dimensions. We buy our Com-Pac biminis from a company in FL. Sorry.

11Mar10 Message: The concrete in my keel is wet, very wet. I have noticed in heavy seas (4 foot waves) I take in more water. But I ALWAYS have water. There are no visible cracks or damage to the keel. This was also a problem to the previous owner because the glass above the keel had holes drilled in it and then seeled with 5200. Is this a common problem? Do you have suggedtions?

Answer: I think you have a leak. The concrete is the lowest point inn n in a 16 and that's were the water goes when you have a leak. I would look at the trailer eye and your cockpit drains. The concrete makes some water on its own because it gets cold and warm with the weather changes during the day. I would use dehumidifier crystals to reduce moisture content in the boat during the spring and fall in North Carolina.

7Mar10 Message: I'm a new owner of this boat. What upgrades are consider to be the best for the cost? It has the newe IDA (?) rudder and jib tracks.

Answer: For a 1980 16 I would consider rudder bearings, Tiller Tamer and maybe a new motor mount. Most older 16s need a new hatch board and the leaks repaired from the overhead hatch slides screws. Com-Pac didn't caulk the screws. If the cushions are shot, I would replace the cushions with indoor/outdoor rug material like the new Legacy. The paint should be falling off on the inside and this can be repaired by removing the loose paint and painting with a good latex paint. Other more expensive options like a genoa, bimini and a mast raising system are user specific.

25Feb10 Message: Just paid too much for '75 ComPac 16.' Is putting a centerboard in and changing to Gaff rig putting more money after bad? Is the centerboard worth it pointing up? Do you have complete Gaff rig available and if so what would the cost be? Thank you so much!

Answer: Installing a centerboard and changing to a gaff rig would cost lots of money. The centerboard will give you an additional 5 degrees of upwind pointing ability. It also will slow you down on other points of sail from the additional drag. The 16 and the Picnic Cat use the same size mast. You can mix and match spars and sails to make a different boat. The negatives with the centerboard are the installation cost and the added maintenance if the boat stays in the water. The positives with the gaff rig are the short mast and storing the sail on the boat if you trailer. The gaff is a more complex rig (one more spar), but it is self-reefing when the wind increases. The original 1975 16 sails were bad sails. They were too thin and couldn't hold a shape. All early (before 79) 16s need new sails.

15Feb10 Message: I'm looking for Compac 16 cockpit tent design ideas for living and cooking area. I plan to make it but could be open to a pre made one. Thanks for any help on this

Answer: We sell a Com-Pac 16 Bimini for $575 plus shipping. This bimini can be shipped where it can be assembled and installed by the user. Other powerboat bimini sold by discount houses may cost less. Look for a size that will fit your boat. You can also adjust the height by cutting the leg tubes.

A tent can be made by using a cloth over the boom. I would use common sense faster on the edge. Cut the cloth, sew the edges, adjust your topping lift, main sheet and a slug stop in the mast to position the boom, connect the edges and you are done. Sailcover cloth or a light canvas will work best.

5Feb10 Message: I do not like the way my sink drains into the bilge on my 23. I am considering installing a thru-hull either on the side above the water line or in the stern. I would appreciate your input on this. I appreciate your website and all the information you provide.

Answer: I have a 23 on my yard that has the sink drain installed in the hull. The through hull is located at the boot stripe and the installation also has a seacock. All early 23s had drains in the boot stripe until a child pulled the drain hose off the through hull and the boat leaked when it healed. That's when Com-Pac moved the sink drain to the bilge.

24Jan10 Message: I need to replace the boom gallows and two metal support tubes that a tree took out last summer. I assume that I can order the parts from Compac, but how difficult is it to remove the existing vertical tubes from the hull? Will I need special tools or solvents to unseal the tubes from the deck? Put another way, am I better off hiring the local Hutchins dealer to do the physical work for the repair? I want to avoid cracking the deck. I was very lucky that the tree didn't hurt the hull, and don't want to cause a problem by doing the repair without the right tools. Wish you were in Wisconsin so I could have you folks do this repair, but it's a long haul to North Carolina.

Answer: No special tools are required. The problem with a repair is the tiller horn must be removed to access the right spot and that's hard to do. Most people can't go through seat hatch to hold the nuts on the boom gallows. We have been using a Sun Cat boom gallows on older 16s. The way we get the tube foot to fit the deck is we cut the tubes in half. We rotate the bottom half until it fit's the deck and has a vertical position. The problem with this trick is that the 1 inch vertical tube has a seam inside and that seam has to be removed for the 7/8 inch splice tube to fit. You only have to remove about 1 and 1/2 inch of seam. We use a 7/8 inch drill bit to remove the seam. Com-Pac uses a real rimmer tool to do the same thing. You might be able to use the old tube bottoms and the new tube tops and not remove the nuts and bolts that go through the deck.

If the posts are not bent, the horizontal attachment points can be bent back into shape. They are easy to bend. Good luck with the repair.

19Jan10 Message: I have heavy condensation collecting on the hull that is eventually working to the liner and wood. This is on the north side of the boat only (sitting east-west in slip). Suggestions?

Answer: It's the North Carolina weather. In the winter time we go from cold at night to hot during the day and your cabin becomes a still. West Marine sells dehumidifier crystals and I have heard that they also sell them at Wal-Mart. The crystals will bring down the moisture content during the winter months.

22Dec09 Message: what parts are needed to convert 16 to boomtender system? thanks. love the website.

Answer: The most important part of the boomtender system is the mast gallows. It carri the mast in the down position. The boom folds next to the mast on standard Mark I boats, but you don't have enough room for a sail and a sail cover between the two. If you don't need that feature, you stop there. The other part needed to get the room for a sail and sailcover is a modified tabernacle. It also provides the fold feature on Mark II and newer boats.

25Nov09 Message: I'm restoring a Com-Pac 16 MK I for maiden launch Spring 2010. At the head of the mainsail that came with the boat is a pair of triangular aluminum support plates, 6"x5"x4", marked "Howe & Bainbridge". The plates have been eaten by metal worms & the rivets are falling out. Do you stock these plates or know where I can find them? Also looking to buy a set of good used or new main & jib sails, plus other items for this boat. Thanks for your help. Best regards.

Answer: We buy our Com-Pac sails from Super Sailmakers. They have a Web site at www.supersailmakers.com. They have lots of experience with Com-Pac sails. They will also help you with a headboard for your existing sail. Com-Pac sells parts direct to Com-Pac owners. Call them or send them an email for a quote on anything else you may need. Keep in mind that 1979 or older Com-Pac 16 sails were made too thin. We consider them junk.

21Nov09 Message: Hi, Keith. What is your take on the Com-Pac Sunday Cat and the Mastendr "Plus" rigging system? Have you seen one? I assume that all three versions of the Sun Cat sail the same because they have identical hulls and sails. Occasionally sleeping in the cockpit with a span across the footwell and under a "summer cabin" seems like it would be much more spacious than the cabin model Sun Cat. Interested in reading your opinion. Thanks for your great writing here.

Answer: I haven't sold a Sunday Cat yet. I think you are right, the different Sun Cats will sail about the same. I really like the master tender system on any boat. We installed one on an O'Day. The Sunday Cat is the right boat for you if you want a boat that can carry lots of people on a day sail. I put 6 adults on a standard Sun Cat with 5 in the cockpit. The boat was down in the stern, but it still sailed well. The Sunday Cat would have balanced the load better. When we sleep in a Sun Cat, someone normally sleeps in the cockpit. Our trawler based on the Sun Cat hull and deck will use the cockpit for the additional room that's needed at night. All the Sun Cats will sleep 2 people in relative comfort. The market for used open boats is smaller than it is for cabin boats. I think the re-sale value for a cabin boat will be better.

16Nov09 Message: Im looking at purchasing a compac 25, 2000. Its an outboard with tiller. How do you like the 25 in general. Is the electric motor lift a good product. How would general maintenance compare to say a compac 23 outboard.

Answer: I owned 2 Com-Pac 25s as personal boats and liked them both. Maintenance on the 25 will be greater than a 23 because of size. The motor mount on the 25 can be a problem and I have had some people convert to diesel. I think the other differences between the two boats are more important. The 25 is less portable than a 23. It is big enough to be considered a slip boat. I would take a 25 on a week cruise to Ocracoke Island and the standing headroom in the cockpit and cabin wals outstanding during the week. The same trip using a 23 was not that good. There is no standing headroom under the bimini when it rains. The 23 is a better day boat and cheaper to own. Both boats sail about the same, but a 23 would more likely win a race. The 25 has a big J measurement (distance from the mast to the bow) that I don't like. Pointing is a little more difficult with the 25.

7Nov09 Message: I have two questions. 1) What size are the Zincs on the centerboard on my Horizion Cat. I need to purchase new ones I think. I keep my boat in a slip (salt Water) and I heard I would need to replace them often. I just don't know what size to ask for when I buy new ones. 2) What is the easiest way to replace them. If I put the boat on the trailer I can't drop the board to get to the Zincs. What method do you suggest to remove and replace the Zincs?

Answer: We stock the smallest RUDDER zinc that West Marine sells. That's the replacement zinc for 16s and the Sun Cats that we replace most often. The Horizon Cat should be the same. The only way to replace centerboard zincs is the pick up the boat with a lift and drop the centerboard. Most people have their zincs replaced when they have their bottom painted. A zinc is designed to prevent the galvanic corrosion of your centerboard from other electrical systems in your area.

3Nov09 Message: Just purchased a used Sun Cat in excellent condition but will probably need to replace the outboard engine soon. I'm interested in the Torqueedo 810 electic motor in lieu of an outboard gasoline engine because its very light and we only need to motor when docking or launching the boat. Based on your highly informative website, I figure you're the best person to ask for an opinion regarding this alternative source for powering a sailboat. Thanks.

Answer: Most of our experience is with gasoline outboards. We have installed a few electric motors on 16s when they were located on lakes that didn't allow gasoline outboards. Small Craft Advisor had a good article on the Torqueedo motor some months ago. I would check with them for an old issue. Our electric’s worked well in light wind conditions.

2Nov09 Message: I own a Compac Horizion Cat. Do you know of any reason why a "HawkEye" D10D Depth Sounder with in Hull Glue in Transducer would not work in my boat? I understand that if a hull has a wood or foam core the in Hull Transducer may not work. I believe the Horizion does not have a wood or foam core in the hull. Please give me your opinion.

Answer: The Horizon Cat hull is all glass. We normally install "in hull transducers" with a silicone sealant unless the depth sounder instructions say you can't use silicone.

25Oct09 Message: I am looking to buy a 1980 compac 16. You state in one of your articles, "This boat has been a dry boat and the inside is excellent. It had the standard deck core problems associated with those early years,.." What should I be looking for when I view this boat. I am totally new to sailing. Thank you.

Answer: The 1980 Model didn't have a wood core. That was the year that Com-Pac changed to a resin and glass bead core. The same material used as a core in bowling balls. Most problems with that year boat will be the result of misuse. You will be able to identify those problems with a good visual inspection.

21Oct09 Message: Can you convert my Compac 16 to a trawler with an outboard motor? If so, approximate cost and delivery requested.

Answer: We can convert your 16 to a trawler. The approximate cost for a Mark II conversion is $10K. That price includes new paint, motor, wheel, controls, sliding side windows and an overhead hatch. We need approximately 6 months from start to finish.

6Oct09 Message: Hi, I just picked up an 87 and am interested in a mast gallows. There is a bimini installed and when not in use is in the way whether you stow if aft or fwd. What is the price of the gallows and is that something that can be shipped. thanks

Answer: The Com-Pac 16 gallows cost $450 plus shipping. The gallows can be shipped via UPS.

3Oct09 Message: I am interested in putting the masttender hinge on my 16,but Hutchens does not think it's a good idea. I don't see any problem with it. I have a friend with a picknick cat that has the system and think it would work just fine. What has been your experience with this if any? Thanks

Answer: The picture of the 16 on my Home Page has a Mast Tender system and it works fine. I think that boat currently lives in CA. We have modified several 16s with the Mast Tender system. The problem with the system is cost. The Boom Tender system for the 16 cost less and does about the same thing. They both leave the sail covered on the boom with the mast down. The teak and stainless boom gallows used with the Mast Tender looks good, but it's expensive.

30Sep09 Message: I have completed my "Trawler" after 3 years and $11,000, including the donor boat and motor. I installed an Evinrude 9.9 electric start with remote controls. It was launched last Sunday and rides perfectly on her water line. I also re-installed the modified sail rig, but have not yet sailed her. It is based on a design I worked on for the past several years, but did not have the time to build until recently. I wrote to you for advice about 2 years ago and it was really helpful. Thanks. I can send a photo, but couldn't attach to this form. Plans are to develop a web site and describe what I did. The Com-Pac is a great donor hull for such a project. One last question, how do I join the Com-Pac owners Club?

Answer: All I need for the club is your phone number and area code. I have the other information I need. I also need the picture you mentioned because I'm sure everyone would like to see your Trawler. My email address is sailboat@ipass.net. I'm looking forward to seeing the picture.

17Sep09 Message: I think that the tube with the pendant for the centerboard on my Suncat it allowing the water that spurts out to go outside the tube and down into the bilge. How can I stop this? Thanx Keith.

Answer: The tube is rigid and the cockpit floor has some give when we move around in the cockpit. That combination can cause a joint leak. The best way to test for a leak is to rap some tissue paper around the tube inside the seat hatch next to the floor. Wet paper will tell you if the floor/tube connection is leaking. You repair the connection by removing the teak block on the cockpit floor. Clean the old caulking at the connection and re-seal with 3M5200. Stop the drains from draining with rags or whatever and put some water in the cockpit with a hose. Check for leaks again using tissue paper.

5Sep09 Message: Thanks for the response on the proper rate of drip for my stuffing box. However I am still puzzled. I measured my rate of drip while the boat was under way at about 3/4's throttle. I observed the drip then at a drip every ten seconds. I still need to know what rate or amount of water is exceptable. The reason I need to know is I seem to be getting an unusal amount of water in the bilge below the stuffing nut. I have an automatic bilge pump but it has to run all the time to keep up. It even runs long after I have docked the boat and turned the engine off. Please give some guidance as to how much water should be coming in. Thank you very much!

Answer: I think you have a leak and it's not at the stuffing box. If you take a container and put it in a sink and adjust a faucet to drip one drop every ten seconds, it would take a long time to get a full container. Your bilge water appears to be more than a stuffing box drip. A drop of water every 30 to 60 seconds on the second day is acceptable for most stuffing boxes. The most likely source of your bilge water is the connection between the shaft log and the hull. Com-Pac uses a fiberglass log and they glass the log to the hull. The way to trouble shoot this problem is put the boat on a trailer and move the cutless bearing clamp aft. Caulk the joint between the log and the hull and then move the bearing clamp back into position to help seal the joint. After the 3M5200 cures, test the boat for leaks. This may not be a permanent fix, but it will identify the problem.

4Sep09 Message: I have a question about how much water should be dripping from my shaft log. I have a 9 HP Diesel Yanmar. The current drip rate is about 1 drop every 10 seconds. Is this too much or too little?

Answer: Good question. Everyone has that same question with a new diesel sailboat. Lubricating water is at the stuffing box when the boat is moving and the drip is atomized into a mist. You normally can't see the mist. When the boat stops moving, the water that was pulled into the stuffing box by the rotating shaft starts dripping. You measure the amount of drip the FOLLOWING DAY after the water in the stuffing box and the shaft log has had a chance to drain. Most shallow draft sailboats have their stuffing box located at the same level as the oide water level and they don't have a stuffing box problem. Some people measure their drip rate at the wrong time and screw up their stuffing box with too much adjustment.

29Aug09 Message: What a great websight. I haven't owned a Compac 16 for six years since I went wood but I visit your sight almost every day in anticipation of new pearls of wisdom from a serious sailor. Two questions: What is the Compac 16 on Ebay (50 miles from my house in IL) worth and what is the status of the enterboard 16? You have given alot of valuable information to alot of sailors. Thanks from at least one of them.

Answer: Another sailor asked the same EBay question on the phone and we said we though the price was good. The value of a used 16 is based on condition and some older 16s may need work. I plan on sailing the yelllow centerboard 16 for awhile. My plan is the sail two 16s on our New River race course and publish the dynamic results on our Web site. Comparing apples to apples should be interesting.

11Aug09 Message: I bought my Compac 19 from you about 15 years ago when I was living in Holly Springs, NC. I have to replace mast due to a boat ramp parking lot low hanging branch accident. Is it possible to order a new mast with the Mastendr hinge and use it with the existing setup on the standard Compac 19? I have seen photos of 19s that you have converted to the Mastendr setup.

Answer: We have evolved into something better. The Mast Tender was expensive and the Boom Tender works better for the 19. The first change for the Boom Tender 19 is the mast gallows. It bolts to the stern pulpit. That puts enough space under the mast for the boom and sail. What makes the Boom Tender work is a small universal joint between the boom and the mast. The mast folds and the boom folds with enough space for the sail and the sailcover. The third optional change is getting rid of the backstay. We move the chainplates for uppers aft and that makes the rigging into a tri-pod system like the 16. You don't need the backstay and raising the mast is better. The 19 was overbuilt and doesn't need all that wire. Sorry about the accident.